Cleaning Your PC 101

All Windows-based PCs are susceptible to a certain level of system data bloating and corruption, especially if you have had the same system running for several years.  This is caused by several factors.

Once you have decided that your system needs serious attention and that you are ready to spend the next two to four hours on this project.  You really have two options to consider. Clean up my current OS or reinstall it with a fresh one. This question is more complicated than you may think, and you need to ask yourself the following questions to determine which option is best for you.

  • Do you have your files and critical data backed up somewhere? This may be on a local source like a usb hard drive or online in a cloud storage like Dropbox. You need to determine how much you will need to restore from your local or cloud backup. The time required to transfer files locally or from the cloud needs to be considered. If you have had to download a terabyte of data from the cloud, you know why this is an important consideration.
  • How comfortable are you with your current system, and are you willing to endure the transition time to set up a new OS, given the several dozen small preferences, security decisions, and changes you would need to duplicate from your current OS to get back to where you are now?
  • Do you have all the installation software, passwords, and licenses required to reinstall your critical software and OS?  I have several pieces of software I purchased many years ago that aren’t available today in the same format or require a subscription fee. For example, my older version of Adobe Acrobat Pro requires online licensing verification, but those legacy servers are no longer active.  If I wanted to use the software on a new OS or PC, I would have to buy a new subscription.

A third option is a completely new operating system, distinct from your current one, such as Linux, Chrome OS, or one of the many Windows variants, like Tiny Windows.  This is an entirely different subject, and I will refrain from getting off topic, since switching your current OS to another available alternative would require far more consideration than what we are discussing here.

Based on the answers to the questions I just listed, I often find that doing a cleanup, especially if you use some free helper software to make it easier, is better than starting over from scratch with a reinstall.  If you have nothing important on your PC or software to worry about, reinstalling your current OS would probably take less time and get you back up and running faster.  Keep in mind that you will be starting from factory default, as if you had just turned on your PC for the 1st time.  This may make reinstalling your current OS less palatable.

Suggested Steps for Windows 10/11 PC cleanup:  This guide is primarily tailored to Windows 11 build 25H2

Before you begin, skip down to Step 13 and run a benchmark performance test of your system before the cleanup to see how the cleanup procedures improve performance after you have completed the cleanup.

Step 1 – Windows Updates –

Windows Update
Make sure your PC has all current Windows updates installed, including optional updates, which are usually driver installations.  This is very important, as security patches and driver updates help reduce the risk of conflicts and ensure your system is safe to use.

Step 2 – Scan for Viruses and Malware –

Windows Defender
Malware and viruses can not only make your PC unsafe to use but also slow it and make it unusable.  You should run a virus scan in your current protection software.  More than likely, this is the native Windows security software formerly known as Windows Defender that is already installed on your system.   Don’t just run the basic scan, which only checks for live running software; instead, take the time to run a complete system scan. This may take some time to run, depending on the number of files and your system’s speed. Run a Windows Security Scan.

Download and run a malware scanner and removal tool.  The one I have relied on for years is Malwarebytes. You can download and run this software using the free options for personal use.  Not only does this software detect malware, but it also scans your system for PUM (Potentially Unwanted Modifications).  These are not usually dangerous, but they can identify system vulnerabilities and changes made by third-party software that you cannot see, which can often make your system less safe.  Once you’re confident your system is free of viruses and malware, you should notice a significant improvement in system performance.

Step 3 – Remove Unwanted Software and Bloatware –

Windows Apps
Software is what makes a PC usuable, and over time, your system will fill with applications, some of which are from your own installations, and others will be from Windows and software updates. In Windows Settings, open the app list, go through each application, and remove any you are not currently using. Think about each piece of software for a moment. If you do not know what it does, then take a moment to look it up. A Google search will give a description.  I suggest that you remove everything you don’t use often by default.

When software is installed, Windows registers it and sets up data links (Dll) in the System Registry to associate system resources with the program.  Scripts and Services are often installed, along with files and folders required to run the software.  These changes consume system resources, storage memory, live RAM, and processing time just to have the software on your system.  Some applications will install programs that run when your PC starts. You can usually see these in the system tray.  These live pieces of software are there to facilitate notifications, telemetry, and software updates, often in the background without you being aware of it.  Removing the software using the uninstall option in Windows should undo all of these changes.

Bloatware is simply software that has little or no real purpose other than to send data to 3rd parties or to notify and bug you with advertising.  A lot of these are preinstalled by computer and component makers when you buy your pc, and others will come with software you yourself downloaded, not realizing that the free utility software you just downloaded came along with 3 or 4 friends you did not want or need.

For example, Dell will load your new PC or laptop with a bunch of utility programs you don’t need or want, most of which will start automatically.  Uninstalling them from Windows app settings will remove most of the issue.  You have to do a little research to figure out which ones you really need in order to keep your system updated, and which are not needed and can be removed.  For example, on my Dell PC, I have removed most of the pre-installed software and kept only Dell Support Assistant.

I do recommend that, for your PC and any major components like a standalone video card, you keep the main utility program for each, which you can run manually to download the latest drivers and adjust settings when required.  If you’re not sure, a quick Google search for the software or component in question should tell you which programs are really required and which you can drop.

Step 4 – System Registry Cleaning –

After removing all the software you do not need, you can run a system registry cleaner that will clean up your system’s registry.  This ensures that all added changes and data links are actually removed.  This will make your system registry much more efficient and organized.  This improves your overall system performance.  The one I like to use is Wise Registry Cleaner.  You can use this software for free, but it also offers a paid option, as with most free utilities.  Run all scans and accept all system updates and improvements that the system suggests that do not require additional software or paid subscriptions.  This cleaner will ask you to do a registry backup or a system restore point before starting the cleaning process.  I strongly suggest creating a system restore point, as it will also let you undo any changes you make after this point if something goes wrong.

Step 5 – Free Drive Space –

Windows Storage
A common cause of poor system performance is low storage space on your PC.  Not only does Windows use a portion of your hard drive space to run several live Windows system files, but your browsers require a chunk of available storage just to browse the internet or download emails.  Another consideration is that the more files and folders you have, the longer the system will take to open and close folders and run system searches.  Windows keeps a live list of files with their location referred to as a file index.  This allows Windows to find files and folders quickly by maintaining a sort of cheat sheet of where each file is located.

You should remove all files and folders you do not use, and clear your browser cache of saved webpages and graphics.  Here is a good guide on how to do this for each browser.  Files and software you download from the internet usually end up in the Windows download folder.  This folder should be cleared regularly. You should also clear your recycle bin on the desktop.   Windows has an option called Storage Sense that helps free up hard drive space and lets you clear unused files in the settings menu.   Storage Sense will guide you to items you can safely delete, including large unused files that you may no longer need.

Step 6 – Defrag Hard Drives –

This isn’t as big a deal as it used to be since solid-state drives (SSDs) have, for the most part, replaced mechanical hard disk drives (HDDs).  The files on an HDD are not organized efficiently and usually store data in the order it is saved, downloaded, or created, as ones and zeros on the physical storage medium.  On a mechanical disc drive, there are several spinning magnetic disks and a mechanical read/write head that moves across them like a needle on a record player.  Data farther from the head takes longer to reach than files located closer to the head.  Files for the same program may not be located in the same relative area, and the reading head inside the mechanical hard drive may have to move to each position on the drive to access those files and then move back to read another file in a distant location.  This is called defragmentation and will get worse as hard drives are used over time.  Windows has a defragmentation function that rearranges files on the hard drive into an optimized format to dramatically increase the drive’s efficiency and speed.

For SSD drives, you should not use defragmentation, since there are no mechanical parts to slow down performance.  Instead, optimize the drive by using Windows Trim to remove unused data and improve efficiency.  The Windows degradation function lets you optimize the SSD drive instead of defragmentation, which should only be run on an HDD.

Press Windows + R to open the Run window.
Type dfrgui and press Enter. This instantly opens the Defragment and Optimize Drives window.

Step 7 – Remove Unused Windows Features and Options –

Windows Features
Windows is a wonderful thing and does a really good job of illustrating complex computer functions through graphical elements that can be seen and touched.  Few can appreciate what happens behind the scenes when you just double-click a shortcut on your desktop to activate a program.  This is what operating systems like Windows do very well, and we are all better for it.  The downside is that Windows is designed to be generic and used by a wide variety of users to run an array of applications.  This means that there is a lot of functionality, features, programs, and options in the system that, depending on the circumstances, will never be needed or used.

Computer resources are not unlimited; they are finite for the most part, so any time you can reduce how often the system has to calculate, find, or run something, you are freeing storage, RAM, and CPU processing time for other things you actually need.  This conservation-resource thinking is very important when optimizing a system, and you need to make your own decisions based on how you want your system to run, what you need, and what you do not.

A good example of this is Windows Pro Hyper-V, a Windows virtual environment that allows users to set up a virtual machine within their current OS.  Most users will never need this feature, and if it is installed in your current OS, there is no reason you can’t remove it.  If down the road you change your mind, it can always be reinstalled.

Windows has a function to add and remove Windows features.  You can do a Google search to see what each of these features is used for and if you can remove them safely.  Please remember that some of these features are required for certain software to run on your system, so take great care when removing Windows features.  A good example of something you would not want to remove is the .NET Framework, which is required for many applications to run on your system.

Press Windows + R to open the Run window.
Type optionalfeatures and press Enter. This instantly opens the Optional Features Window.

Step 8 – Turn off Unneeded functions, notifications, and telemetry –

Windows has a ton of features, functions, startup programs, notifications, and telemetry that constantly run in the background and even communicate over the internet.  Some of these are so basic that we cannot imagine windows without them, such as the ability to copy and paste.  Resources and processing power are dedicated to the system to allow this functionality.  Removing these or disabling them will improve your PC’s performance.

Windows Transparency
The best example I can give of this is the Windows transparency menu effect.  This is a visual feature of windows that creates a transparent effect along the borders of menus and folders, allowing items behind them to be partially visible, as if the menu bars are semi-transparent.  The OS is constantly dedicating processing time to calculate and display this visual effect.   While making the OS prettier and enhancing the system’s look and feel, an effect like this consumes resources.  At the end of the day, you have to decide how to allocate your resources within your system, while I will always strive to maximize performance. There will always be an inherent give-and-take in finding your own sweet spot between performance and usability.

Microsoft is constantly changing and adding features and options to Windows with every new build and update.  I have listed below many of the Windows settings and features I would adjust to improve performance and security.  You, as the user, should make your own decision on some of these, but I myself prefer an easy, straightforward setup with as little fuss as possible and as little telemetry and data collection occuring as possible.  Below is a quick list of settings I recommend adjusting to get the most out of your Windows 11 experience.

Settings

  • Settings – System
    • Display resolution – Find the best resolution for your eyes. Lowering the overall resolution will improve performance, but it may also dull your Windows experience or even increase eye strain.
    • Adjust the System scale for your eyes – I have poor eyesight, and increasing the font size and overall scale of objects on my pc helps a great deal.
    • Sound Settings – Make sure the speakers, headset, and microphone you’re actually using are set as your default sound output and source for both speakers and microphone.
    • Notifications – I’m not in favor of turning off all notifications in Windows since I personally do like when the system notifies me of new emails, phone calls, and other important items.  I prefer to pick and choose the software and services I allow to notify me.
    • Focus – I turn this off
    • Power Mode – Set to best performance. I also go into the detailed settings and turn off hibernation mode.  On a laptop, you may want to set the best performance only when plugged in to avoid battery drain.
    • Storage Sense – I prefer to have this turned on so Windows will automatically free up space as needed.
    • Nearby Sharing – I turn this off
    • Multitasking – I turn on Snap windows
    • Remote Desktop – I turn this off as leaving it on when you do not use it is a security risk.
    • Clipboard History – I turn this off
    • System Components & Optional Features – As noted above in Step 7, you should remove anything you’re not actually using.
    • BitLocker – I turn this off
  • Bluetooth & Devices
    • Bluetooth – If you’re not using any Bluetooth devices, turn this off if your system has Bluetooth available.
    • Devices – If you have something plugged in that you never use, you should disconect or disable it.
    • Camera – If you do not use the camera, I would disable it.
    • Printers – I disabled “Let Windows manage my default printer” and set my default printer manually. I also remove any printers that I’m not actually using or that aren’t actually connected.  There may be some virtual printers here that can also be removed.
    • Pen & Windows Ink – Unless you have a touch screen, I would turn this off.
  • Network & Internet
    • Ethernet – Network Profile Type – Public network is the safest
    • Advanced Sharing Settings – I turn this off
    • Windows Firewall – You should have all of these services enabled unless you have given a 3rd-party software provider this responsibility, such as Norton antivirus or other protection software.
  • Persoanlizations
    • Background – Setting this to single color improves performance.  Pretty background pics can be a severe drain on your system.
    • Colors – Turn off Transparency Effects
    • Dynamic Lighting – I turn all of these settings off
    • Lock Screen – I download a black background pic and load that as the default lock screen.  I also turn off “fun facts, tips, tricks, and more”.  I also set the lock screen status to none.
    • Start – I like the default setting. I turn off “Show most-used apps”, “Show recommendations,” and “Show account-related notifications”.
    • Task Bar – I turn off Task View, Widgets, and Chat, as well as most other listed tray icons.
    • Time & Date – I turn on most of these features since I prefer Windows to keep my clock in sync.
    • Notifications – I turn this on, but I turn this feature off for specific programs.  I also turn off “Suggest to get the most out of Windows”.
    • Devise Usage – I turn off all of these
  • Apps
    • Install Apps – This is where you need to review the software you want to keep on your PC, as discussed in Step 3.
    • Video Playback – Turn all these options off
    • Startup Apps – This is where you can review applications that start automatically when Windows starts and decide what you want to run.  I would recommend turning off all of these items except those you need, such as Microsoft Defender and security notifications.  I have more details on this in Step 10 below.
  • Accounts
    • Here you should see your Microsoft account information as well as any email or gaming accounts you set up on this PC.  I personally do not like using Microsoft accounts and prefer a local user account instead.  I describe those options in detail in Step 12 below.  If you use Office 365, for example, you will want to make sure that the account is set up here under email and accounts.
  • Time and Language
    • The time options have already been discussed and are also linked under the Personalization settings.
  • Accessibility
    • Test Size – These were already discussed under Personalization, which links to these same settings.
    • Visual Effective – I would turn all of these off.
    • Magnifier – I turn this off since I have never seen anyone use it.
    • Contrast Theme – I set this to none.
    • Narrator – I turn this off unless you have a disability that requires it.
    • Audio – I would turn off Mono Audio and audio notifications; the sound settings were already discussed above, which were linked previously from the system settings.
    • Captions – I turn this off unless you have a disability that requires it.
    • Speech – I turn this off unless you have a disability that requires it.
    • Keyboard – I turn off all of these settings.
    • Eye Control – I turn this off unless you have a disability that requires it.
  • Privacy & Secruity
    • Windows Security – Everything here should be enabled unless you are using a 3rd-party antivirus program and/or firewall.
    • Find my device – Unless you have a laptop, this should be off.
    • Recommendations & Offers – I would turn off all of these options.
    • Speech – I would turn this option off.
    • Inking & Typing personalization – I would turn this option off.
    • Diagnostics & feedback – I would turn off all of these options.
    • Activity History – I would turn this feature off.
    • Search Permissions – SafeSearch set it to Strict.
    • Searching Windows – Find my files set to Classic.
    • Location – I turn this on, but turn it off for everything except the browsers and Office 365.
    • Camera – I turn this on, but turn it off for everything except the program I use the camera with, like Teams and RingCentral.
    • Microphone – I turn this on, but turn it on only for programs that need access, like RingCentral.
    • Voice Activation – I turn this off.
    • Notifications – I turn these settings on.
    • Account Info – I turn this off.
    • Contact – I turn this off.
    • Calendar – I turn this off.
    • Phone Calls – I turn this off.
    • Call History – I turn this off.
    • Email – I turn this off.
    • Tasks – I turn this off.
    • Messaging – I turn this off.
    • Radios – I turn this off.
    • Other Devices – I turn this off.
    • App Diagnostics – I turn this off.
    • Documents – I turn this off.
    • Downloads Folder -I turn this off.
    • Music Library -I turn this off.
    • Pictures – I turn this off.
    • Videos -I turn this off.
    • File System – I turn this off.
    • Screenshot Borders – I turn this off.
    • Screenshots and apps – I turn this off.

Other things you should disable:

GameOptions
Microsoft Gamebar
Microsoft GameDVR
Microsoft Gamemode
Microsoft Gamebroadcast
Microsoft Gamenetwork

Step 9 – System Services –

Services are built into Windows and run live on the system in the CPU’s RAM memory, and are available for any program to access and use.  Software will often create its own services when installed to provide the functionality it needs to run properly.  Many built-in Windows services are set to manual, which means a service must be selected or software must be initialized to activate it.  Other services are configured to run automatically, so they start when the system is turned on without the user taking any action.  You can also set a service to disabled, which will prevent it from running.  Please note that some services are dependent on other services running at the same time.

When a Windows Service is running, it is running in the computer’s live memory, and the processor is actively giving it processing time just to keep it available even if it isn’t used or needed.

One technique to make a system run faster and more efficiently is to disable unused services Windows does not need, force most services to be Manual only, and prevent them from running all the time.  You have to be very careful with this since disabling a service or setting it to manual may prevent software from running correctly.

A good example of a service that most of your programs will interact with is the Print Spooler.  This Windows Service loads automatically when Windows starts and allows software running on your PC to use the computer’s printing functions.  If the Print Spooler was disabled, you can not print from your PC.  One thing to consider is that, for example, you had a gaming PC with no printers and intended to use it only for gaming.  Then you could make a good case for disabling the print spooler or setting it to manual, so it isn’t running on your PC all the time, which would free up RAM and processing time.  This will positively affect your PC’s performance.

In theory, you could go through all your automatically set services, switch them to manual, and force the system to turn each service on only when needed.  The downside is that certain functions and software may not run at all, and the system will take longer to boot and start software, since it will have to start these services manually instead of having them hot and ready.

My suggestion is to use current articles that have already done the hard work and identified services that can be safely set to Manual or Disabled altogether, with consideration for the most common use cases.

Windows Services to Disable for better security and performance
Concise List of Windows services and recommendations to disable

Press Windows + R to open the Run window.
Type services.msc and then press Ctrl + Shift + Enter. This instantly opens the Services window.
You will need admin access to open this option.

Step 10 – Disable Startup Items –

Startup Items
There are several places in the system that can control startup items. I have the main one linked above, but you should take the time to review the other locations to make sure you aren’t missing anything scheduled to run when Windows starts up. When you install software, including drivers on the system, startup software can be installed. The purpose of this software is to do updates, telemetry, and notifications related to the software or device for which it is intended. In many cases, you do not need or want this software running on your PC all the time, taking up system resources. Some startup items you need, like Windows Defender and Security. You need to apply your own judgment about what you need to run, based on what you use and what can be activated manually when the software is turned on and used.

For example, Steam is a popular gaming software platform, and if you have a gaming PC that uses a lot of Steam games, then you will want this program running all the time.  For most people, you want to prevent this program from starting when the pc is turned on.

The 1st article linked below shows you how to access all startup locations, and the others are guides and recommendations on specific software you can or shouldn’t disable.

Startup item locations in Windows 11
Common startup items you can disable

Step 11 – Windows System Corruption –

Windows system corruption is a common cause of system slowness and performance issues, and running a scan to check for issues and problems is always a good idea.  Windows maintains a system image on your hard drive. This system image is used to install components and, as a maintenance function, to reinstall parts of the system that become corrupted.  Windows has a built-in System File Checker that can identify corruption and use the local system image to make repairs.  To run this, you have to do so from an administrator-level CMD prompt.  1st, make sure your system image is up to date before starting a system file check. Open a CMD prompt as an admin.

Press Windows + R to open the Run box.
Type cmd and then press Ctrl + Shift + Enter.
Confirm the UAC prompt by selecting Yes.

At the CMD prompt, run the following command to update the system image:

DISM.exe /Online /Cleanup-image /Restorehealth

After the system confirms that your system image is good within the same cmd prompt window, you can run the System File Checker to repair any system corruption.  If corruption is found and corrected, it does not hurt to run it a 2nd time to make sure everything is addressed.

sfc /scannow

Windows also has several built-in troubleshooting wizards that can provide correction and assistance for spefic issues like Windows update failures or networking issues.  I would only run these when you are actually having an issue, not as preventive maintenance.
Windows Troubleshooting

Step 12 – Microsoft Accounts or Local User Account –

More than likely, Microsoft has already tricked you into signing up with your Microsoft account or setting up a new one when you turned your pc on for the 1st time.   I prefer to use only a local user account and not use a Microsoft account at all.  Here is a link to an article on this issue and how to set up a local user account on your pc.  The downside is that Windows will occasionally prompt you to sign in with a Microsoft account, which can be annoying.

Please note that if you already have the current user setup on this PC as a Microsoft account, you may want to keep it as is, since creating a new local user account now will mean that some of the custom settings you have already done to this point will have to be redone in the new user account.

The upside to using a Microsoft account, if you use Windows on multiple devices with the same account, you can enjoy the benefits of having each experience duplicated, with things like bookmarks, browser settings, and passwords shared across devices.  For my own use, I do not like sharing my information with too many big data hoarders, just as a general rule.  Whether we are talking about Google, Microsoft, Apple, or another large corporation, at the end of the day, if you choose to buy and use their products, you are going to have to allow them a certain level of access to your data on some level.  You should take the time to get familiar with who you are sharing your data with and how that data is being used, so you can make your own decision.

One workaround for this issue is to use a Google Chrome account.  This gives you the same unified experience across devices without needing a separate Microsoft account.  This is just one approach to data control. You, as an informed pc user, will have to make your own assessment.

Step 13 – Performance Testing –

Well, now that you have dedicated an afternoon to cleaning up your pc, you may be wondering how to quantify your improvements.  If, at the beginning of these steps, you saw my note to come down here to run a benchmark test before your cleanup, then you have a good baseline for comparison.  If you did not, then don’t worry, since the benchmark tool will compare your results with those of other testing users with similar hardware to give a performance grade.  This is the one I like, which is BenchMark, or this one NovaBench.

Step 14 – System Backup/Restore –

Now that you’ve taken all this time to clean up and optimize your PC, you want to preserve this setup by creating a system backup.   There are several ways to back up your pc; you can create a usb backup of your system.  You can create an online backup (requires OneDrive) or go old-school and create a system restore point.

System Backup Online (OneDrive)
System Recovery Drive (Local)

To create a restore point, use the following commands:
Press Win + R to open the Run dialog box.
Type rstrui.exe and hit Enter.

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